Question Aluminium composite board

Try this stuff. I've used it in a variety of ways.

[h=2]Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive [/h]


Do a torture test if you have any doubts.

Doug
 
Apologies, it is called "Liquid nails", it may not actually be available in the US. Here is the MSDS though which may help you find a comparable product. MSDS link
 
Apologies, it is called "Liquid nails", it may not actually be available in the US. Here is the MSDS though which may help you find a comparable product. MSDS link

In the U.S. Liquid Nails is used to repair anything that Duct Tape won't hold. :shutup:
 
Just a comment on using a sign supplier. Find one with a showroom or a good display area and you'll find all kinds of neat stuff that a framer can use. Also you'll find lots of great advice there. I was very familiar with sign suppliers before I started framing as I had been in the sign business for a few years prior to the gallery and frame shop and all my signage for the gallery myself including bending glass and neon, plus I am an "old" time sign man who can twirl a brush for hand lettering which is dying art ( It's really is no longer needed ).
 
Im hoping to use flobond and Satinex to mount/lam RC photos to dibond in our vacuum press.

Should we laminate the print separately and then mount the print to the sheet of dibond, that way you would not need to bring the dibond up to the higher temp the lam needs. Or is this precaution not necessary?

Should I have any issue with the flobond/satinex combo? I dont think it will make sense to have to ship the KoolTack plates into the province ($$$) when i can get dibond from the local sign supplier. When I spoke to Drytac they said there are issues with dibond in the vacuum press causing bubbles on anything bigger than 11x14. So im waiting on some flobond to try it out.

Also from the other comments I think we have decided to get a FSC as well.

Thanks
 
I wanted to report that with everyone's help I succeeded to mount the customer's picture on dibond, laminate it and glue it to a wood frame. It looked great. I haven't had any bubbles appear for large pieces mounting on dibond in a vacuum press - unless if bubbles can appear after many months.
The FHB tape didn't help and was expensive. I think I needed to buy a thicker version of FHB. I spent $70 on 2 rolls of FHB tape. Then I spent $5 on Loctite Premium Construction Adhesive to do the job. I placed boxes of glass on top of the frame while the glue cured.

If you are buying an FSC, check the internet first. I paid $3500 but I see prices close to $3000 advertised.
Bruce Hazany
 
I am revisiting this post because we had a 20x60 picture mounted on 3MM ACM and glued to a wood frame with silicone separate and fall.
Now I have to replace the picture but don't know what the best way is to adhere ACM to wood. I remember I tried Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive (recommended in this thread) that did not work. I tried it for 2 customers who came back with damaged pictures. Then I tried silicone - lots and lots of it - under boxes of glass resting on top for 24 hours. This had worked but the picture today was really large and stayed on the wood for 6 months until it fell down.

I was told by an installer that ACM should be mounted to metal - not wood-
I know large companies out there (like Fine Art America) are selling plenty of these metal pictures mounted on a stretcher bar.

I told the customer that I might have to screw from the face of the picture into the wood frame. He wasn't happy with that idea.

I do have 3M VHB tape I use for other projects. I can also place screws from the back of the wood frame into the ACM but 3MM is so thin, I am not sure if this would be effective.

What has been your experience - especially if you have done a large picture like this?

Thank you,
Bruce Hazany
Vision Graphics
Philadelphia
 
Surfing the internet this morning and I see that other than 3M VHB tape, there is a lot of talk of 3M 5200 adhesive used for boats. I also read that the aluminum surface should be cleaned with acetone and then sanded before applying glue. Our failed attempt showed that almost all the silicone glue we had used was stuck to the wood and none to the ACM.
 
I just purchased Gorilla glue.
Do you use a wood frame under the aluminum?
What was the largest piece you did and do you sand the aluminum first?
Thanks
 
A steel wire brush will give you very good tooth on the aluminum panel.
 
If you want to bond it to metal just screw some flat head srews in to the face of the stretchers and mount to them.
You could also use L brackets to give more metal surface in corners.
 
The aluminum is only 3mm thick and we can't put screws into it from the back. I wish we could.
The Gorilla glue we used is a white paste from a tube. We applied it with a caulking gun. I assume this glue is the same as the liquid Gorilla glue that comes in small containers?
The piece is under a lot of heavy weights for the weekend.
 
The aluminum is only 3mm thick and we can't put screws into it from the back. I wish we could.
The Gorilla glue we used is a white paste from a tube. We applied it with a caulking gun. I assume this glue is the same as the liquid Gorilla glue that comes in small containers?
The piece is under a lot of heavy weights for the weekend.
Don't think it's the same. We use the yellow liquidy stuff. Kept under pressure as it expands.
 
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