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Archival Framing Large poster

Discussion in 'The Grumble' started by Larry Peterson, Aug 10, 2018.

  1. Larry Peterson

    Larry Peterson PFG, Picture Framing God

    I have a customer that wants to frame a large (30x60) poster of some value.

    I have already told him I don't ship anything that large but would like to offer some advise on framing such a large beast.

    Besides the usual UV or museum and spacers, he wants to hinge mount it with filmoplast P90. I don't think that is advisable for a poster that large so would like to get some advise on this.

    In the past I have read (here?) about linen backing but no nothing about it. I have heard that there is an alternative universe dedicated to archival poster framing but I can't find out much about it.

    I won't be doing the framing but I would to steer him in the right direction.

    Any thoughts?
     
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  2. neilframer

    neilframer PFG, Picture Framing God

    I'm assuming that there will not be a mat.
    He could possibly frame it with UV plexi or even better, Optium Museum acrylic with a direct contact with the poster, no spacer, no hinges and acid free Fome Cor as a backing.
    Barrier tape on the frame rabbet.

    I have framed a number of old, valuable posters that were already linen backed.
    The linen backing was usually done to repair damage or tears.
    We had nothing to do with the linen backing part and I believe it was done by conservators.
     
  3. prospero

    prospero SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    Personally I don't like to see mats on posters. I would sooner use a wide, flat(ish) frame. Posters are a different animal.
    In their original purpose they are flat things designed to go on advertising boards without a great deal of architectural stuff
    surrounding them. So to my mind they need to be displayed in a similar fashion.
    A cute way I've used is to hinge them to a board which is maybe 1/2" bigger. Then use a wide frame with a slip (gold/white/black/whatever).
    The trick is to raise the back of the slip away from the mounting board with a strip of linen tape - not wide enough to encroach on the poster itself.
    This stops the edges of the poster from being restricted but the gap is not noticeable.

    * If all that sounds a bit baffling I have a diagram somewhere......:D
     
    shayla likes this.
  4. shayla

    shayla WOW Framer

    How heavy is the paper?
     
  5. Greg Fremstad

    Greg Fremstad MGF, Master Grumble Framer

    I believe that if you frame it in direct contact with any glass or acrylic the edges of the poster will be expand or contract with changes in humidity long before that humidity affects the central area of the art. This will result in buckling around the edges.
    It would help a lot if you insist on framing this way to tape seal all around the glass-art-backing package to prevent any changes in humidity inside the framing package.
     
    cvm and Jim Miller like this.
  6. Donald

    Donald Grumbler in Training

    What's the reason for the hinge?

    You already said spacers. If the glazing is cut to the size of the poster, and you have frame space spacers around the glass, they will be in contact with the poster on all four sides holding it down.

    Second thing you can do is lay the poster out on backing, go around the edge of the poster with Mylar mounting strips. Cut a 1" mat to cover them, put package in frame.

    These can be cut down so as to be thinner and just on the edge.
     
  7. Jim Miller

    Jim Miller SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    With a large item such as this, as mentioned above, expansion/ contraction cycles can be a serious problem. In my experience, DCO framing with acrylic works well. But there are some caveats:

    1. Place a few layers of polyester batting (NOT cotton) under the poster, same thickness edge-to-edge. And when you fit the frame, compress the batting enough to keep the poster flat.

    2. Between the poster and the batting, place a full-size sheet of Mylar to provide a slippery surface under the poster, so it can expand & contract freely.

    3. Never use glass for DCO framing, due to its propensity to condense moisture.

    4. Use acrylic thick enough to withstand the pressure of tight fitting without deflection. 1/4" thickness probably would be good.

    5. Inform the customer that exposure to rapid ambient changes could be harmful.

    I'm probably forgetting something important...if I think of other tips I'll come back.
     
    cvm, prospero and shayla like this.
  8. prospero

    prospero SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    I posted two diagrams last night but they seem to have vanished. o_O

    I could have put them in the wrong place. If anyone sees them please post a link back to here. :D:rolleyes:
     
  9. Nick Marneffe

    Nick Marneffe Grumbler in Training

    shayla likes this.
  10. Joe B

    Joe B SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer

    I do agree that posters at one time was for attaching/installing on advertising boards but that isn't so true now. I do a lot of poster framing and now with the collector posters having values anywhere from $100.00 to into the $1000.00s they are no longer just a piece of advertisement. I do like mats on most of the collector posters. I consider the posters to be works of art, most are signed and numbered and the editions are generally 100 to 150. I have seen these poster increase in value to some astronomical prices in a very short time and as of yet I have not seen many decrease in value. I do not know what the future holds for these posters but I am sure there will be many that will turn into real collector items 20, 30 or more years from now.

    I do use mats on most of these posters, I just believe that it compliments them so much more than just setting them in a frame. It is always rag mats and generally only 1 - 2 inches wide. I do make sure that there is plenty of room in the package for the posters to expand and contract, I use a discontinued 4 ply mat corner between the backing and the point to obtain a consistent space for movement. Also, I either hinge the posters letting them drape or use mylar or cotton paper corners to secure the poster. I prefer to make my own cotton corners using a 32 lb cotton paper. With the cotton paper corners I'm assured there will be no adhesive touching the poster.

    I have not had any complaints about my posters getting waves in them. Joe
     
    prospero likes this.
  11. prospero

    prospero SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

  12. nastistoic

    nastistoic Grumbler

    Just want to add here that humidity with the larger works can be a nightmare. Depending on location, the larger the art and theoretical frame opening would be more suspect to these fluctuations. I've only done this for a few years so would defer to the other posts in the thread if anything I'm saying here doesn't seem consistent but in my experience, humidity/heat/etc themselves will obviously affect the art but are expected and to some degree prepared-for, but it is the rapid fluctuations that tend to create permanent damage. An A/C needing repair or a significant water leak in the right room can cause rapid fluctuation - so rapid that the top of the art may even be in different conditions than the bottom, for example. Buffering the environment within the frame is an option but go too far and you're creating an environment for humidity.

    On a separate note, if the print itself is 60", he would likely need custom UV materials. He may not be in a position to obtain such for a fair price.

    I do something similar but it seems like most artists autograph the white border on the bottom left or bottom right of the print. Right in the perfect place for a corner hanger lol. Even the transparent corners just seem too invasive for my personal taste if the borders are showing.
     
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