R
Robert Montgomery
Guest
I'm trying to figure out how to archivally mount large, limited edition giclee canvasses onto board, without drymounting or cold mounting. Some of the giclees will be up to five feet long, by as much as two feet wide.
I plan to use Premier Art Eco Print Shield to veneer the canvas giclees. (I read on the Internet that the new formulation isn't subject to damage if frozen down to a particular temperature, unlike the original formulation and Glamor II.)
I don't have access to dry mounting equipment, and I read on the Internet that cold mounting is not archival. I don't want to use a spray because I'm not set up for spraying. So that leaves me with gluing as my only adherence option.
After allowing the veneer to dry, I would glue the veneered canvas to a board with some sort of a glue.
I'm considering using Lascaux 360 because it's a removeable glue, but I'm concerned about the toxicity of the stuff.
I had thought of using Miracle Muck, but I read on the Internet that it's not removable and that it can be damaged by freezing and the manufacturer's site says it's not conservation-grade. Also, I have concerns about its removability because a Web site (http://docs.google.com/gview?a=v&q=...&gl=ca&sig=AFQjCNHVksXoskO_BTMGxZdOjmFToe5kHQ) says that it's heat-reactivatevable, and that implies that heat used to damage the Muck could damage the giclee.
I had also considered an acrylic gel or Golden Paint's GAC 500, but they're also not removeable.
Yes Glue, I understand, is not archival enough.
Also, I had considered Laminall glue, but it makes a permanent bond – not a removable one.
I don't know what kind of board to buy. I think it should be one-half inch thick because people like the profile when the canvas giclees stick out from the wall, and the board should be stiff so it doesn't warp. I'm looking for acid-free foamcores, but the ones I've seen are only three-sixteenths of an inch thick, so I don't think they'd be stiff enough and that they'd warp too much.
For example, I've looked into buying Artcare Foamboard. It's acid-free, but does it warp? It's only three-sixteenths of an inch thick.
The board should be black, because canvas giclees are normally black-sided, because I was told some people in the art and printing businesses that they look better with black sides when they're in floater frames.
I've read in the forum that some people use Gatorfoam, a.k.a. Gatoreboard, but I read on the Net it's not archival, and I'm concerned that some of the acidity could pass the barrier glue to damage the canvas. Is that true?
Also MDF or Masonite are acidic, and as well they're way too heavy.
I need a lightweight, black board that doesn't warp, that can be cut easily with an art knife and that doesn't dent or chip easily.
I'm considering black Rynoboard (one-half inch thick).(For example at http://www.gilmanbrothers.com/ryno.html.) I see on that site that the liner of the Rynoboard resists moisture, is acid-free and dent-resistant, but I don't know how easy it would be to cut the one-half-inch-thick board an art knife.
So I would have the veneer on the surface of the canvas giclee to protect against U.V. damage, scratches and moisture; then under that the canvas print; then underneath that the glue (maybe Lascaux) and under that some sort of board.
To keep the workload and costs down, I would prefer not to frame, so somehow I'd attach screws, plates and wire to the back of the board.
How could I do such a setup?
Robert
I plan to use Premier Art Eco Print Shield to veneer the canvas giclees. (I read on the Internet that the new formulation isn't subject to damage if frozen down to a particular temperature, unlike the original formulation and Glamor II.)
I don't have access to dry mounting equipment, and I read on the Internet that cold mounting is not archival. I don't want to use a spray because I'm not set up for spraying. So that leaves me with gluing as my only adherence option.
After allowing the veneer to dry, I would glue the veneered canvas to a board with some sort of a glue.
I'm considering using Lascaux 360 because it's a removeable glue, but I'm concerned about the toxicity of the stuff.
I had thought of using Miracle Muck, but I read on the Internet that it's not removable and that it can be damaged by freezing and the manufacturer's site says it's not conservation-grade. Also, I have concerns about its removability because a Web site (http://docs.google.com/gview?a=v&q=...&gl=ca&sig=AFQjCNHVksXoskO_BTMGxZdOjmFToe5kHQ) says that it's heat-reactivatevable, and that implies that heat used to damage the Muck could damage the giclee.
I had also considered an acrylic gel or Golden Paint's GAC 500, but they're also not removeable.
Yes Glue, I understand, is not archival enough.
Also, I had considered Laminall glue, but it makes a permanent bond – not a removable one.
I don't know what kind of board to buy. I think it should be one-half inch thick because people like the profile when the canvas giclees stick out from the wall, and the board should be stiff so it doesn't warp. I'm looking for acid-free foamcores, but the ones I've seen are only three-sixteenths of an inch thick, so I don't think they'd be stiff enough and that they'd warp too much.
For example, I've looked into buying Artcare Foamboard. It's acid-free, but does it warp? It's only three-sixteenths of an inch thick.
The board should be black, because canvas giclees are normally black-sided, because I was told some people in the art and printing businesses that they look better with black sides when they're in floater frames.
I've read in the forum that some people use Gatorfoam, a.k.a. Gatoreboard, but I read on the Net it's not archival, and I'm concerned that some of the acidity could pass the barrier glue to damage the canvas. Is that true?
Also MDF or Masonite are acidic, and as well they're way too heavy.
I need a lightweight, black board that doesn't warp, that can be cut easily with an art knife and that doesn't dent or chip easily.
I'm considering black Rynoboard (one-half inch thick).(For example at http://www.gilmanbrothers.com/ryno.html.) I see on that site that the liner of the Rynoboard resists moisture, is acid-free and dent-resistant, but I don't know how easy it would be to cut the one-half-inch-thick board an art knife.
So I would have the veneer on the surface of the canvas giclee to protect against U.V. damage, scratches and moisture; then under that the canvas print; then underneath that the glue (maybe Lascaux) and under that some sort of board.
To keep the workload and costs down, I would prefer not to frame, so somehow I'd attach screws, plates and wire to the back of the board.
How could I do such a setup?
Robert