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Attachment Disorder

Discussion in 'The Grumble' started by shayla, Mar 16, 2019.

  1. shayla

    shayla WOW Framer

    How would you attach a piece of matboard mounted on foam core to this and hang it on the wall? That's what the customer basically wants, (with no glazing). It's fine if we back it with gator/strainer, whatever, as long as it fits fine and can be hung. Not sure what to do, as there's not much to work with. These photos show the back of the 'frame', and as you can see, the corners aren't connected in back. The only nod toward hanging is three wee slits the engineer cut in the top of the top rail, but they're only 1/16" wide. I can imagine making a strainer with hangers, and attaching the front pieces to that, but how would you attach that to the frame? No spacers between front of frame and matboard. Must hang flush to the wall. The overall size is about 24 x 32". cut out earth frame resized.jpg cut-out earth detail 2 resize.JPG cut-out earth detail 3 corner.JPG
     
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  2. David Hewitt

    David Hewitt CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    I make strainers supports out of 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 6ft, select pine that I get at Home Depot. That with3/16 foam and1/16 mat will perfectly fill your 1 inch space.
    You could mount with small screws using the provided slots on top, and ask if you could drill two small holes on the bottom to secure it there. (counter sink for a flush fit)
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2019
  3. MATTHEW HALE

    MATTHEW HALE CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    will your client allow you to drill holes in the sides? if so, some nice neat countersunk holes with screws into the strainer would do the trick. Just like most wood strainers are installed in steel or aluminum frames from A Street, Smallcorp, Bridger, etc.
     
  4. echavez123

    echavez123 MGF, Master Grumble Framer

    Looks like the piece is heavy steel. Hmm. Suggestion:
    1) Hanger:
    Cut a piece of wood, ~ 3/4" x 2" x W, where w is the inner width, minus about 2". This is attached level and anchored to the wall as the hanger - kind of like a cleat. This holds the weight of the frame. Then, use small screws through the 3 slits on top to keep the frame from sliding off. Do not tighten the screws all the way. You could use finishing nails instead and leave the head exposed about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Because the frame is hanging from the top lip, this will cause the rest of the frame to pull downward and towards the wall, keeping it flush.

    2) Attach matting and foam.

    This is easy to test, if you have a wall where you can mount the hanger.
     
  5. Lafontsee

    Lafontsee CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    I agree with the others about adding a strainer and screwing through the sides of the piece (if allowed). If you bevel the wood you use for the strainer you will have a built-in french cleat that will hang flush to the wall as well.

    James
     
  6. Rick Granick

    Rick Granick SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    It looks like it was meant to hang from brackets into the two slots in the top rail, or I'm guessing maybe this was mounted over a lightbox panel.
    :cool: Rick
     
    alacrity8 likes this.
  7. shayla

    shayla WOW Framer

    They made it just or this project. Guys who usually use their big boy toys to make complex machinery, and are doing this as a sort of in-house project when an employee retires. Did a few a couple of years ago,
    and they added these funky, one-time-use, tabs of the same metal to hold it in the back. Also had one-time-only bending parts on the back to which a wire was attached. I told them that, if the metal was soft
    enough to easily bend, it was soft enough to give way over time. This time, they tried it this way, and hoped it would work. I think the 'screws through the top and bottom into a strainer' idea is a good one.
     
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