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Double Reverse Bevel Mat Cutting Help Needed


SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I did a search and came up with an old post (of mine) but I don't think my brain is working this week on overload!!!

I need a double REVERSE bevel with a fillet in between... and am having a real mental f*** about this..

Can anyone state simply the procedure?

The outside dimension is 16 x 20 and the total mat width is 3 1/2". The top mat needs to be 2 5/8". That leaves 3/8" for the fillet and 1/2" for the bottom reveal.

How difficult can this be to figure... but I sure can't grasp it in my state of overload!!

Probably should have sent out to the CMC!!


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SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
1. take a deep breath
2. Take a week off (starting Friday)
3. You have the figures.........Sketch the corner on a scrap and then confirm that it is not that bad.
4. cut the mat.

5. take a deep breath and cheer up. You did it right! :D

[ 12-20-2003, 11:34 AM: Message edited by: JFeig ]


SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer

Okay!! I like your style!! I just might do that!!


when you cut two normal mats - you cut from the outside edge of the top mat for both mat openings... With a reverse bevel on both top and bottom mats - I can't see the way without doing them separately and maybe that's what I have to do!!

I'll get it ... Thanks! Roz


<span style="color: red"><b><i>Charter Member</i><
Yes do them separately. 1. When setting your stops for the reverse bevel add an 1/8 inch for the stops and cut that first mat 3 1/2 inches and the second one 2 5/8. 2. Cut from the front side. 3. Flip over and finish cutting the underside corners by hand.
This keeps you from having an over cut and having it show.

Simple enough but sometimes we all have a blank moment.


SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Pencil mark the top mat
Mark 1/16 Less than actual dimensions, because reverse beveling adds 1/16 when cut.

?? Maybe it's 1/8? Whatever- give it at try.

Pencil mark (VERY CAREFULLY) 2-9/16 - (2-5/8 Less 1/16)
Remove your stops and guide bar from your mat cutter.
Cut your mat from the back as usual, but this time cut at the line from the opposite side you would normally. (DON'T FORGET) Your blade will be angled toward the center.

Cut the mat on the line and start and stop exactly at the pencil line intersections.

Cut down your second mat 1/2"smaller as you would normally

Lightly tape together with a few small pieces of ATG.

Pencil mark (VERY CAREFULLY) your second mat measuring from the outside edge of the top mat at 3-7/16 (3-1/2 Less 1/16)

Pencil mark the exact placement of the bottom mat on the top mat before separating.

Install your fillet with 1/8" foam spacers (and barrier tape if you wish) as usual and tape your mats back together.

Cut your foam spacers narrow enough not to cover your alignment mark on your top mat.

Did Less get it right? :confused:

Maybe I'll try it JPetes' way?
But, the two boards will have to be exactly the same size and perfectly square, otherwise the mats will not be perpendicular. Not much of a problem with a lot of reveal, but not good for 1/4" or Less.

[ 12-20-2003, 07:38 PM: Message edited by: lessafinger ]


<span style="color: red"><b><i>Charter Member</i><
I use nothing less than a square mat. Try it, you'll like it.


SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Less and JPete, thanks for your approaches... I tried JPete's with some success!! and will practice (in a less harried time) the Less' approach!!

Thanks - Roz

Bill Henry-

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
For reverse bevels I usually use the squaring arm stop on the right side of the mat cutter. If your slide bar is 2-1/2" wide and you want a 3-1/2" wide mat, set the squaring arm at 1" (3-1/2 minus 2-1/2). That way you don't need to lay out the cuts in pencil first.

If you're using stops, set them for about 1/16" less than usual to compensate for the overcut.

Cliff Wilson

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Hmmm, Before I got my CMC, I had taken to cutting the outside of the bottom mat 1" larger in both dimensions. Cutting each separately, making sure the openings were the desired size. Then, placing the top mat over the bottom mat so that the reveal was even all around and tracing the outside of the top mat on the bottom mat. Cut on lines and you're all set. This means the outsides need to be square, but they don't need to be exactly the same. I guess it depends what you're worried about getting wrong??


Pat Murphey

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

Before I got my Wizard I cut both mats together (stacked) on my wall cutter. Then marked the back of each mat with a pencil line to preserve the orientation so that any imperfection in squareness will always match. I do more fillets than multiple mats and this technique always worked for me.

Pat :D
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