Opinions Wanted Framing antique brass stencils (archival)

comma

Grumbler in Training
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I am very much a newbie in the framing world, I have some experience but I have a collection of antique brass stencils I need to frame.

They are not perfectly flat so I'm guessing some kind of shadowbox is the route to go.

Are there simple options out there that have archival backing that I can pre made or is this something I would have to build?

If I have to make it, what would be the best approach? Thanks so much
 
Primary consideration should be for oxidation. I don't think that brass is as sensitive to some of the other environmental concerns as we are accustomed to dealing with (light, heat, humidity) except as they have effects on oxidation.

There are corrosion inhibitors available to be included in the frame package from sources such as Talas. These would have to be refreshed on a regular basis as they are sacrificial. Desiccant panels are also available if you have humidity issues.

Mounting could be achieved with Mylar straps on either a rag board or cloth covered rag board backing (avoiding wool and silk).

Mitigating changes in internal environment is helpful. Limiting oxygen exchange using sealed frame technology would cut down, but not eliminate , the need for replacing corrosion inhibitors.

That's about all I can think of for now.

Oh, one of the other grumblers, Jerry Feig (JFeig), has developed a product called Minoxy that might have an application for what you are doing.
 
I don't think they need to go the Library of Congress method of atmospheric isolation... gonna guess here that they are just some neat old stencils and are being framed for decorative purposes.

Also gonna guess here that, as they are antique, they are already oxidized, so actively trying to keep them from oxidizing seems like a moot point.

How about a photo of one of them so we can see what you are dealing with??
 
I don't think they need to go the Library of Congress method of atmospheric isolation... gonna guess here that they are just some neat old stencils and are being framed for decorative purposes.

Also gonna guess here that, as they are antique, they are already oxidized, so actively trying to keep them from oxidizing seems like a moot point.

How about a photo of one of them so we can see what you are dealing with??

You're right, they are old and already oxidized. They're valuable but certainly don't need to be in a vault. Just protected from dust and not touching anything acidic.

Sorry if my original post was misleading with that.

They are similar to this:

5ea86c7f32a11d331dc2b6c4bdd48b10.jpg
 
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Cool. I would still go with Mylar straps to secure them to whatever backing you decide on. Alternately, formed rod mounts would work, but might be more obvious. I would still also do what I could to arrest the oxidation at this point, just being sure to limit any oxidizing agents in the frame package.
 
Cool. I would still go with Mylar straps to secure them to whatever backing you decide on. Alternately, formed rod mounts would work, but might be more obvious. I would still also do what I could to arrest the oxidation at this point, just being sure to limit any oxidizing agents in the frame package.

Thanks!
What kind of frame package would you suggest?
 
I agree on the Mylar straps. Fortunately there are plenty of holes the thread them though.
You can slice Mylar down to almost nothing and it's still strong.

I did think of fine lacquered copper wire which is very strong and almost invisible. The stuff
they use for winding transformers (not the big robots:D). But certain metals can react and
leave a mark. I think we are familiar what happens to brass hanging wire on a steel nail. :confused:

I has just occurred to me that they would look good mounted on a piece(s) of rough wood to imitate a packing case. If you put felt bumpers on the wood to lift them up a tad there would be
no risk to them from the bare wood surface. Just a thought.....
 
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I agree on the Mylar straps. Fortunately there are plenty of holes the thread them though.
You can slice Mylar down to almost nothing and it's still strong.

I did think of fine lacquered copper wire which is very strong and almost invisible. The stuff
they use for winding transformers (not the big robots:D). But certain metals can react and
leave a mark. I think we are familiar what happens to brass hanging wire on a steel nail. :confused:

I has just occurred to me that they would look good mounted on a piece(s) of rough wood to imitate a packing case. If you put felt bumpers on the wood to lift them up a tad there would be
no risk to them from the bare wood surface. Just a thought.....
In ordering mylar, what thickness do you prefer?
 
In ordering mylar, what thickness do you prefer?
I prefer to use 3-mil clear polyester film, brand names Mylar-D or Melinex 516. The thin film can be sharply creased to conform to flat or rounded shapes, but not spherical shapes (it does not stretch at all). Also, the thin film can be accidentally creased in handling quite easily, so handle it carefully. Thicker films, .5-mil and 7-mil, are more forgiving. Do not be concerned about the strength of thin film, because polyester films are very strong.

To attach the clear film straps, use good quality polyester tape with acrylic adhesive. My favorite is ASAP Tapes fillet tape #ASA600, but 3M #415 works well, as does 3M #889 (if you can find it). Avoid cheap pressure sensitive tapes and never, never, never use ATG or any other carrier-less adhesive for clear film mounting. Illustrated instructions are in The Complete Guide to Shadowboxes and Framing Objects, available from the PFM and PPFA Bookstores.
 
As they are old and already oxidized, I would not do anything to them that would affect the patina. Think cleaning an old coin. More valuable when left alone.

Agree with the mylar straps.
 
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