1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. WELCOME Grumblers
    Backup is now done at 3PM EDT. You may find the server down for up to two minutes at that time.

Hoffman issues

Discussion in 'Software, Computers, CMC's Techie Stuff' started by Scallywag, Sep 30, 2017.

  1. Scallywag

    Scallywag CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    We got a Hoffman a few months ago and things seemed to be working ok. We almost exclusively make L cap stem profile frames and are seeing lots of cracked corners now. The frames look fine right away but after sanding and moving them around a little they open up. Never had a problem with clamping and nails so I'm assuming there's some operator error going on here. I really want to like this machine but.... Any advice is welcome!
     
    Sponsor Wanted
  2. JFeig

    JFeig SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer

    Can you give us dimensions of the molding and type of wood?
     
    David Waldmann likes this.
  3. MATTHEW HALE

    MATTHEW HALE CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    Pictures might help us diagnose the issues, as well as what model Hoffman machine you have, but it sounds to me like one of two things may be happening:

    1) Your wedges may not be long enough. I like to use the longest wedge possible. If you are joining a 2" tall profile but only using a 1/2" wedge it's going to fail.
    2) your machine may not be calibrated perfectly. If the bit is set too shallow, the wedge won't pull the rails together tightly. If it's cutting too deep, it'll pull too tightly and the keyway will split.

    We've had our X-25 for a while now and I love it. We actually use it more than I thought we would. It really excels at the type of moulding you describe - tall and narrow.
     
    David Waldmann likes this.
  4. Scallywag

    Scallywag CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    In have the MU-2. Using a 3/4" x 2" usually maple or walnut. We use the tallest wedges we can. At first they were too tall and we sanded through to the tip of the wedge. Now after the frame is joined and we sand it, the corner on the face is just slightly opening. It is probably just a matter of adjusting it properly, but we switch from the w1 to the w2 and it is time consuming.
     
  5. wpfay

    wpfay Angry Badger

    That's why I don't switch out the cutter head. I use the W-1 on everything, and I do a lot of stem mouldings like you do. There are two W-1 cutters, one being exact and the second slightly oversized. I have switched to the latter because hardwoods have little forgiveness. I also got a digital micrometer from Hoffmann that really helps in setting up the cutter depth.
    A call to Hoffmann may be in order. Markus and Gary are incredibly helpful.
     
Sponsor Wanted

Share This Page

Wizard Ad