Hoffman joiner

Scallywag

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Posts
233
Location
Los Angeles
I've used Hoffman keys to join chops from vendors, but have never used the router. I primarily make hardwood frames i.e. 2" tall x 3/4" face, 1 1/2" x 1/2, etc.. I recently went to the Hoffman website and saw them using this system on said mouldings and it seemed great. Right now I set up with 4 vices and clamps and nail the corners or spline. It seems to me like I could do away with the vices and all if I had the Hoffman system. Anyone own one of these, or have any opinions? 'Cause it's enticing! And pricey!
 
We have two. Greatest thing since sliced bread. The design of the system is very good, and the tool is well engineered AND built. Very easy to use, although setting up the bit projection (which determines the tightness of the joint) can be a bit tricky. As Ben & Jerry say "It costs more, and it's worth it".

We offer it as an option on chop service, our joining method for chop and join, and for the first step in making splined corner frames.

If you get one, since it sounds like you probably use a relatively limited number of profiles, I would suggest you make some spacer blocks to set the Fence (A) and Routing Height (B), and make a list of which settings to use for each profile (C). Takes a little time to make them, but well worth it for quickness of setup and ease of use. I can literally teach someone to use ours with our profiles in less than 30 seconds. And they will be done right every time.

Note the Outside Fence (D), which can be used as a second stop for wider profiles when you want two keys per joint. Note that, in order for both sides to be set precisely the same distance from the bit (so that they will line up when you put the corner together) you will need to first use the regular V-shaped fence, hold the moulding against it and then push the outside fence against it. Do this on both sides, then move the regular fence back towards you to set the second location.

20160603_111856949_iOS_zpszp9jn3bl.jpg
 
Mine is an entry-level model X20 purchased at WCAF a few years ago, and it works very well for my small retail framing shop (no longer mine, but still work there occasionally). We use it mostly for deep-rabbet frames and difficult profiles of all sizes. The Hoffmann machine is worth every penny, and then some.
 
I have a new X20 purchased at the WCAF show and am very happy with new machine. Now when we are working with tall profiles, I feel really good about the join. Previously they would cause me a bit of angst during the join process. It did take us a bit of time to figure out the proper setting for a tight join but once we had the meter Hoffman sells, it was much easier.
 
I started off with the entry level machine (X-15 I think), and used it for about 10 years. Upgraded to the MU2* a few years back, and sold the old machine for a bit more than 50% of the purchase price. The new owner is very happy with it.
From the sounds of things, the Hoffmann is tailor made for your operation. It excels in joining stem profiles. To answer your question, yes, it eliminates the need for the corner vice.
*The manual model of the MU2P model that David is showing.
 
Those are some pretty solid reviews. Thank you! One last question.... Can you use it for joining BIG frames? In the realm of 70 x 50 or bigger? I realize I would have to support the moulding while routing but does the join hold up at those sizes? I use pretty beefy wood at that point but we do a lot of big frames and it would be good to know. We just finished 5 frames that were close to 72 x 96 with a 1 1/4" face and 3" depth.
 
We've used it on frames up to 5' x 12'. That one was a 1-1/2" wide floater, so we put three keys in the vertical section and 3 in the base. It's been a couple years and I haven't heard any issues.

We're only set up for W1 keys, and use multiples when possible. In the above case I would have used W2s if it were easier to change bits. That's the only thing I don't like about the Hoffmann.

The larger table top machines can do all the way up to a W4, which is huge - almost an inch wide. W4s are typically used in architectural components such as windows and doors and even timber framing. So, you definitely CAN use the Hoffmann to join just about any size frame you can imagine.
 
Thanks for posting the link to the photos, David. That's a great example of the Hoffmann's advantages.
 
I've done stems up to 60" X 84", and some really big strip style floaters I got from David several years back. The beauty in that particular job is I could join the 1/2" X 2" strips around the canvases so no unsupported moving of 48" X 108" and 60" X 96" strip frames after joining. You can also assemble the frames on site if needed.
I'm also set up with the W1 cutter, and not inclined to change. The plunge style micrometer that Markus has really helps in the setup and fine tuning.
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