Must have been Festool, they think they invented wood.Hey Baer,
I'm having trouble envisioning the carpenter that built the frame I worked on back in 1834 setting his saw for a 44 degree cut - Bosch or Festool?
I promoted that clamp for a number of years and it's a good clamp. The manufacturer, however, is no framer. The atrocities I have personally seen him commit on defenseless art would be enough to cause the toughest of us to become queasy.Has anyone ever heard of Master Clamp made by Baruch Framing Tools? Baruch has a whole highly successful system aimed at glue only joints. Baruch made very expensive frames for years and never used mechanical fastners and lived to tell about it. The main weakness of the system is that it takes too long for common frames, not that it doesn't work. Anyone making only a few frames a day would do well to consider glue only.
Crner Weld has a plasticizer in it that keeps it from becoming brittle. The problem with traditional wood glue is that when it fails it is 100%. Picture frames tend to get bumped on a corner over time and the leverage of the long sticks cause glue joints to "Pop". When you hear the pop with traditional wood glue there is nothing holding the frame together except fasteners.I am new to framing but have done woodworking for quite a while. What is the preferred glue for picture frames. What type of glue is cornerweld. After looking at sevaral different cut moldings it looks like you may need a different glue than your normal yellow glue??
Ken, you can actually use any kind of glue you want; and the diversity of the industry proves that. Just don't use that famous gooy jelly stuff from your state.I am new to framing but have done woodworking for quite a while. What is the preferred glue for picture frames. What type of glue is cornerweld. After looking at sevaral different cut moldings it looks like you may need a different glue than your normal yellow glue??
Were you a fly on the wall when we did our large flag jobs? We pretty much did everything you did except for the biscuits and webbing. We did cross nail the corners (I know, I know) and added support strips vertically on the back. Those frames can fall down a staircase and not come apart!I've just put together a frame using 3 1/2" flat moulding, 1 1/4" thick.
Outside dimensions about 75x 63". Put two biscuits in each corner, quiclkly glued it and put a webbing strap around the whole thing. Then put 2x2 10mm v-nails in and fixed two L-plates on each corner. Apart from rearranging half the worshop and wishing I had arms like a gibbon it went fairly well.
Interested to hear how others would have approached the job.