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is regular plexiglass considered archival?

Discussion in 'Grumble Archive pre 2004 Topics' started by pamazon, Dec 24, 2003.

  1. pamazon

    pamazon CGF, Certified Grumble Framer

    I am wondering if regular old plexiglass contains anything harmful, can I use it on an original serigraph? I don't mean if it blocks uv or not, is it an acid free,inert material?

    thanks, and Merry Christmas
     
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  2. wpfay

    wpfay Angry Badger

    Acrylic glazing is fine for the project you have. The term I learned, just this year, is "non-donor" and I believe it applys to acrylic glazing.
    The only isue I've seen with acrylic that would make it not a desireable glazing product is when it's static charge would effect the art, as with pastels.
    Use the same techniques you would with glass and you should be fine. There are going to be spacers or mats to keep the acrylic from touching the surface of the art, aren't there?
    Certain serigrahic techniques involve a clear top coat on the image, Neiman and Simbari both used it, and if it comes into contact with the acrylic it may bond to the glazing. A fairly generous amount of space between the serigraph and the glazing is suggested.
     
  3. preservator

    preservator SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer

    As Wally has noted, nothing destructive has been
    observed coming out of acrylic sheet during the
    several decades it has predominated as the glazing
    used in museums for works of art on paper. Beyond
    the possible problem that Wally mentioned of bonding between coating layers on the serigraph
    and the glazing, space between those two is helpful in preventing any abrasion that might
    flatten the raised parts of the serigraph ink.
    When the screen is pulled up from the print, the
    surface of the ink is pulled up in a pattern that
    follows the weave of the silk, adding to the
    beautiful, matte look that is valued as part of
    many screen prints. If the print is large and the
    frame is more than 40" wide at its narrowest, thicker (3/16") is useful, since it is more rigid
    and will stay further from the surface of the
    print if it is laid down, face up or is left leaning in a stack. When the high points of the
    ink are worn down, dark, shiny spots are left.


    Hugh
     
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