Ok.. since on two different platforms no one responded to this query of tips for mounting skates, I'll share what I did to mount theses ice skates.
Design: 5" acrylic case, with a 2" white frame, skate and photo inside the case
From Menards, I purchased small/thin 4" white zip ties and the smallest white plastic end caps (used on furniture, curtain rods, or alum rods), and some clear invisible hanging wire.
I made a template of where the skates eyeholes were located
Positioned the template, and used a very small thin punch to create a hole in the mat/mighty core substrate in the positions I wanted to hang the skates from.
punched 5 separate holes: center and the one higher; 2 below the center one & finally the 2nd top eye hook from the top
I selected an appropriate height end cap to use as "a spacer" to level the skate and threaded the zip tie from the bottom up through the back, through the "spacer" and the shoestring hole higher than the center one. After hiding the zip tie under/behind the shoelace, I came back down through the center hole. While I still had enough of the zip tie to connect the two ends, I found I couldn't achieve as tight of lope as it wanted to stay more "circular". I used 2nd new tie to create a "U" shaped tie and secure it as tight as needed.
Then, I proceeded to secure the the next two lower eyeholes using the same procedure - but with a smaller/shorter spacer as the laces were closer to the mat.
The final attachment point of the upper skate leather was the 2nd top eye hook. I threaded the nob end of the zip tie through the eye hook from the inside of the skate (the nob is visible) through another "taller spacer" which I pre-trimmed "notches" into it to fit around the eye hook. Again, I used a 2nd tie to tighten it on the back.
Finishing it off and stabilizing the blade:
Where the closest heel screw was to the mat, I punched a hole. After unscrewing the heels rear blade screw a bit , the the clear wire was looped over the screw and re-tightened. (I learned to tread the wire into the mat first, hold the loop into the proper position with a needlenose pliers.) Once the wire was secure behind the screw, I pulled the noose tight, and secured it under the mightycore using a combo of a VHB tape (2 stips wide of fillet tape) for grip of the plastic wire and artists tape to top cover the VHB tape.
1st one of 4...about 30 minutes while figuring this out.
the 4th one...about 5 min!
NOTE: as the zip tie ends were flush with the base lip of the frame, I added a layer of the "thin sheet foam" (that chops come wrapped in) to act as a filler between the mightycore/ties ends and the 70# dust cover paper.