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Mylar mounting question

Discussion in 'The Grumble' started by dpframing, Dec 28, 2018.

  1. dpframing

    dpframing CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    The artist insists on float mounting a 30 x 36 work on mylar to a backing plexi which will be mounted in a frame with a front piece of plexi and spacers, so it is transparent for 1 1/2"all around the edges of the art.
    I made mylar hinges , but what adhesive?
    I tried epoxy, wheat paste, PVA ,but they do not work since the mylar is non-porous. The only thing that works is a microdot of crazy glue, which I don't mind using on the hinge-side facing the plexi. But it's permanent. What adhesive can I use to mount the Mylar hinge to the back of the art (Mylar to Mylar)? The artist is so sold on this layout that they have signed off on any liability on my part. He doesn't even care if the art is permanently mounted to the plexi, but I cannot do it. Any ideas?
     
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  2. Jim Miller

    Jim Miller SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    If I understand correctly, the art substrate is actually a sheet of clear polyester film, right? And you need to show the edges of the art all around, right? If this is correct, then you could use a high-quality double-sided tape on the Mylar. I used to use 3M #889, but it is no longer available. 3M #415 would be a good choice, but my favorite is ASAP Tapes #ASA600 fillet tape, because it has a very thin, strong ribbon of polyester (like the Mylar) and very good acrylic adhesive on both sides. It is aggressive enough to hold some weight if thoroughly burnished, and probably would not migrate. All of my clear polyester film (Mylar/Melinex) mounts are made using this tape.

    If you want to use an adhesive on the art, maybe you could skip the Mylar hinges and just use double-sided tape betwen the art and the back-sheet of acrylic glazing. Or, maybe you could use single-sided clear tape (such as Framer's Tape or 3M Scrapbooking Tape) as hinges.

    Either way, be sure to burnish the tape thoroughly in order to activate the bond. For every kind of pressure-sensitive adhesive, pressure is the operative term.

    That said, for this project I probably would not use any adhesive in direct contact with the substrate.

    Maybe you could use pairs of 1/8" or 1/4" cube-shaped rare-earth magnets. To assemble, use a drop of cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) to attach the magnets to the inside surface of the back-sheet of glazing (acrylic), placed just to the inside of each top corner of the art. Then, position the Mylar art and place another magnet on top of each glued magnet, to sandwich the art substrate at the top corners. Use 1/4" to 1/2" deep FrameSpace spacers all around, to accommodate the thickness of the double-magnet mounts in the corners.

    Or, maybe you could use clear, spherical (round) 3M Bumpons stuck to the back-sheet and front-sheet of glazing instead of using magnets. The non-slip surface of the vinyl Bump-Ons could grip the top corners of the sandwiched Mylar art substrate. In this case, you would need to precisely-space the glazing sheets to maintain pressure on the Bump-Ons between the glazing sheets, which could be tricky.

    Anyway, if you decide to use non-adhesive corner mounts - whether rare-earth magnets or clear Bump-Ons - you might have to also place pairs of them on the bottom corners in order to keep the Mylar substrate un-curled. If so, then expansion/contraction could cause the Mylar to wrinkle in some conditions.

    Happy New Year!
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2018
  3. Gilder

    Gilder MGF, Master Grumble Framer

    Beva film will work on it too.
     
  4. dpframing

    dpframing CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    Crazy glue actually did NOT work. On samples, the mylar peeled away from the tab using crazy glue.

    I used clear polyester tabs which I made 3/4" x 1". They were sheer tabs and I wound up using 1/2" ATG tape
    on the top half of the tab facing the plexi and on the bottom half of the hinge facing the art. I burnished the hinge
    against the art with bone, positioned the art, and burnished the other half of the hinge against the backing plexi.

    The sheer strength was off the charts, as long as the tab remains flat. AND for future removal of the art, the tab
    peels cleanly off the Mylar, leaving the art in its original state.
     
  5. shayla

    shayla WOW Framer

    Hi, dp. I think that Jim meant attaching magnet to acrylic with crazy glue, then holding the artwork by pinning it with another magnet from the front. The potential trouble with having used ATG tape is that it's insufficient for long-term support. If the project ever heats up (i.e. in a car, while being shipped, or in storage unit, or even direct sunlight), the ATG can melt and give way. The tapes he recommended have better adhesion and temperature tolerance. Not saying that's the best method, (as he clarified), but hopefully, this note will at least help for future archive searches.

    The idea of using such tapes to attach a large item has me thinking of how it might be done. Some might adhere the tape to the art, lay it flat with adhesive facing up, while others might place adhesive strips on the mounting substrate and apply the art from above. For similar things in the past, we rolled the art onto a tube first, (but only when it works). The note about using Beva Film is an interesting thought, as long as the item can take heat without fading or other damage. Thanks for letting me share these thoughts after the fact. Wishing you a great week ahead.
     
  6. Jim Miller

    Jim Miller SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    In my experience, ATG will not hold on clear polyester film (Mylar). It will flow and migrate, and eventually fail. You should use a tape that has a non-stretching (polyester) carrier.
     
  7. dpframing

    dpframing CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    The ATG mount has gotta hold for 5 weeks, while the show is hanging. So I'm hoping I get away with this one.
    After 5 weeks, the artist is having me take the art off the mounts. I'm fairly confident that I can peel off the tabs
    with no problem.
    If I would have read the post about using ASAP ASA600 fillet tape, I would definitely have used that, as I will in the future with Mylar.
    Thank you for the valuable advice.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
    Jim Miller likes this.
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