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Opinions Wanted Need help with mounting options

Discussion in 'The Grumble' started by Mer, Nov 30, 2018.

  1. Mer

    Mer True Grumbler

    I need to mount a 40”x45” giclee. It’s worth some money so options are limited. This is a client for my boss, so I was not there for the design aspect. The client had the option to order the giclee framed or unframed. My boss promised we’d do a spectacular job and have us (I.e. me) frame it.

    They want it float-mounted onto a piece of hidden a/f foam core. That is where my question lies. How to mount the super rolled up giclee to the foam core.

    Then that mounted to painted Masonite (or similar) board. The reason it’s not being matted is the finished size will be around 48”x54” and they decided on a blue for what would be the matting if they were doing that (instead of available white/cream/black in super oversize).

    My boss told the client we would just sandwich the giclee between the glass and the foam core. *sigh*. Obviously that is NOT what is going to happen. The last time he float-mounted something was while I was on leave and he used carpet tape (not joking).

    Any help is appreciated. Of course if you just want to laugh at me, please feel free to do so.
     
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  2. Joe B

    Joe B SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer

    That is tough, float mount and the print is super (tightly) rolled - don't even try until you get the full roll out of it, it has to be flat or it will curl in the frame. Direct Contact Overlay DOC without a platform float would be best.
     
  3. neilframer

    neilframer PFG, Picture Framing God

    I'm not going to laugh at you Mer, I'm from Whitefish Bay WI originally 1952-1958....:D
    Then on to Chicago from 1958-1977..
    (I've mentioned this before ..had no idea of the saying "White Folks Bay" until other folks mentioned this.o_O......)
    I have almost 50 years of framing now and if I can help you , I will.
    Some of the info is confusing, and I'm sure that it is to you as well.
    If it's a Giclee but does it really need glass?
    The Masonite is being used as a painted mat?
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2018
  4. Joe B

    Joe B SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer

    Neil, why would a Giclee not need glass? Maybe a better question would be is what the Giclee is printed on, paper, canvas, wood, etc. Giclee is just a different way to apply ink. I assumed it was Giclee on paper since it is a "super rolled" and so I would use glass.
     
    prospero likes this.
  5. Jim Miller

    Jim Miller SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    Good question. I always recommend glazing, and it would be acrylic for such a large size.

    I work with a talented photographer who produces big giclees on the highest-quality papers. They are drymounted to Kool Tack MightyCore or Gatorfoam (not sure which), trimmed to size, and then epoxy-bonded to bare-wood 1-1/4" deep strainers. That assembly is screwed into the floor of a floater frame about 40" x 60" or larger. No glazing. Prices $1,500 & up.

    He insists that the surface is durable, and anyway, it's the owner's problem after delivery.

    I cringe.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2018
  6. Jim Miller

    Jim Miller SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    With a full explanation about the affect of permanent mounting on the value of the art, I would ask the customer's permission to permanently mount it. It might be a good idea to consult the artist about this, too - maybe their framing would involve permanent mounting, as well. If you can't mount that large a paper, perhaps you can find a graphics-design supplier with a large cold-roller press to mount it using a good pressure-sensitive adhesive. I've done that in the past with some large posters and photos, with good results.

    Instead of hardboard for the recessed background, I suggest using 2 mm or 3 mm aluminum composite board (aka ACM, such as DiBond or AlucoBond brands). It's very rigid, lightweight, and smooth-surfaced in many powder-coated colors. You could paint it, but if a suitable standard color does not already exist, I would suggest covering it with fabric.

    Joe's suggestion of an acrylic DCO may be your best option for a raised-float design, but never use glass in direct contact. Its terrible thermal properties would condense moisture readily, which could be disastrous. Acrylic slows the rate of temperature change to usually avoid the dew-point condition inside the frame, except in the most extremely rapid/radical ambient changes.
     
  7. David Hewitt

    David Hewitt CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    You can reverse the roll by rolling it flat and put it under weight for a few days, or a reverse roll (Not Tight) maybe a 8" or 6"roll, you don't want to stress the fibers.
    Kool Tack, Mighty Mount are foam boards available.
    You could use fabric as a backing, it would give you better options with the width and color.

    There are lots of ways to do this, some mount the art on substrate (Di-Bond for example) then on a strainer for float height, and that is mounted to the colored (or fabric) back board using screws, then installed in a float frame, some with glass, some without.
     
    Joe B likes this.
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