Opinions Please -- Rattle-can Okay?

[Woodworks by John]

I have a client that prefers a semi-gloss, black finish on the custom frames I've made for him. After creating the profile it's given at least one coat of burnisher/sealer which is sanded smooth. He doesn't want any of the woodgrain to telegraph through the final finish. I've been using spray cans and then following up with a coat of wax but I always feel "guilty" and wonder if it's quality enough. This artist is in a gallery, he likes the frames and so do they. Not having a spray booth I do occasionally spray water borne paints with my HVLP sprayer outdoors but rattle can is so much easier! I've seen Krylon used before big shows for touch up so it must be okay -- what say you?

 

[neilframer]

We have used the rattle can often.
I like Krylon because it dries pretty quick.
Don't rush the second coat, though.

It's all about surface preparation and technique, which I'm sure you know about.
Keeping the right distance when spraying and starting the spray before the edge and continuing after the edge so you don't get too much in the corners.
Don't put it on too heavy in one coat and just follow the can instructions.
A second or even a third coat might be needed.

Sometimes I give the first coat a wipe when it's dry with wet 0000 steel wool and then dry with a lint free rag and blow it off with air before the second coat to remove any specks.
Watch out for the dust and the gnats when spraying...

 

[wpfay]

I will be interested in hearing other opinions, but mine is, why are you second guessing yourself? From what you posted, the client is happy with the results, and I don't see why one paint finish is preferable over another, though I do think HVLP with a spray booth is probably better economics for volume work, but that's not the question, is it?.
I don't think anyone will find you lacking because you found a means to an end that is acceptable.

 

[Woodworks by John]

That's what I wanted -- opinions from professionals so thanks Neil! Using the burnisher/sealer from LA Gold preps the surface beautifully especially after sanding with 320 or so. Client is happy, the gallery is happy (so they must be selling) and that's what matters. Like you say Angry Badger, a spray booth would probably be economic on a production scale but I'm a one man shop with a focus on quality. All hand planed, biscuit joined, glued and clamped. Hand laid gold and hand carved when applicable and enjoying the process. Appreciate your replies -- John

 

[Prospero]

I'm surprised that you can get a smooth finish on bare wood without a lot of primer. What type of wood is it?

As for the top coat of paint itself, it should be as tough as old boots.

I used to paint basic black cushion with auto body paint. Minimal prep. just a wipe over with a de-greasing fluid
a spray it out of a can. The metallic colors looked great. I found an odd frame the other day which I must have done
30+ years ago and it was good as new.

 

[Woodworks by John]

I'm surprised that you can get a smooth finish on bare wood without a lot of primer. What type of wood is it?

I do use a primer, the wood though is Basswood and the primer is from LA Gold, their burnisher/sealer. Usually one coat is sufficient and sanded with 320 paper prior to the final paint. I have one client though that likes the way the Basswood grain telegraphs through the finish so, you know -- whatever it takes to seal the deal!