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Trimming Laminated Maps

Discussion in 'The Grumble' started by shayla, Jun 13, 2018.

  1. shayla

    shayla WOW Framer

    For those of you who mount pre-laminated maps (coated on both sides), here's a question. Do you trim the foam core to the map itself, or leave 1/8 to 1/4" of plastic past it? Trimming to the foam looks better, but removes the encapsulation effect, so the only thing really mounted is the back piece of plastic, and the front can still separate. But leaving the plastic wouldn't look as good. What do you do?
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  2. shayla

    shayla WOW Framer

    And for some reason, this 30 x 43" prelaminated map also isn't wanting to mount in the corners. I first cooked it at 130 for about 4 minutes, turned it (still facing up) and did the same for another three. It looked good until I trimmed it, when two corners popped back up. (Using Canvas MountCor, and waiting for the pressure to reach 28 before starting the cycle.) I blue-taped the trimmed edges back on and cooked it longer. Six minutes one way, turned it, and four another. The two corners still aren't mounted. This substrate usually works great, but plastic coatings are so tricky. I'm wondering, too, if it had something on it that's causing a problem. There seems to be no point in cooking it longer, so I'm thinking of whether to try it with a tacking iron set to 130, or try gluing them down. Why would the former do what 18 minutes in a press didn't, though, and how would the latter work on plastic? (Or would it discolor later). What have you done when the whole thing is plastered down, except for a couple of edges?
  3. alacrity8

    alacrity8 CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2

    For laminated items that need mounting, I tend to use a sticky board like Perfectmount. I prefer not to use any heat on something that is mostly plastic.
    If you can remove it from the backer without much effort, I'd start the mounting from scratch.
    I would usually trim the plastic to 1/8" all around, or remove it completely.
    Are you using glazing? Are you using spacers?
    I once trimmed the laminate on a print, and the back layer came off on it's own. I'm not sure if the front did as well.

    I've completely given up on all heat activated foamboard.
    I just don't trust them anymore.
    I've had similar problems with posters to your problem with mounting posters.
    I usually use Fusion, but use Techmount or Safemount for low temp mounting.

    Good luck.

  4. prospero

    prospero SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    The trouble with these things is that you are trying to mount something that has already been mounted.
    'Boiling your cabbages twice' as my mother used to say. :D

    One way is to cover the board with strips of 2" carpet tape. Leave the release backing on. Align the map and
    lift one edge. Peel one strip and smooth down. It can't move now, so lift the other side and peel/smooth each
    strip in turn. Then put the whole thing in the press (cold) and give it a good squeeze. If you take care laying the
    strips you don't see the edges of the tape strips. This tape is very aggressive and stays so for years. I did some
    Velcro display boards like this 30+ years ago and they are still stuck. And they have been banished to the damp
    shed for the last 20. If you do pull a sample off and detach the fabric, the tape is still sticky and the bump can be
    patted down again. It should (in theory) work better than that with a laminated map.
    I think the corners could be lifting because of some contaminant. Greasy fingers? Good idea to wipe over the plastic
    with mineral spirits and maybe a scrub with fine steel wool before mounting.
    alacrity8 likes this.
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