I've never in 50 years used a vacuum to get dust out of the frame.Looking to add the vacuum used to get dust out of frames. I have a compressor but not sure how to search for this attachment.
Ive been doing it will a brush the past 4 years but I know there are more time saving methods. Thanks for the info.I've never in 50 years used a vacuum to get dust out of frames.
We use the compressor with an air nozzle to blast the dust out.
There is a method to doing this and you have to make sure that you have filters on the air line so you aren't blowing any oil out on the glass or the artwork.
Thanks!IT was called a Spec Sucker, sold by United.
Try Talas or University Products.
Looking to add the vacuum used to get dust out of frames. I have a compressor but not sure how to search for this attachment.
LURVE? Ain't that a museum in France?We LURVE dust sealing/tape sealing and have done it in the shop for 30 years. I wouldn't do it any other way.
I'm no rocket surgeon but.... isn't compressed air also high in moisture content?I've never in 50 years used a vacuum to get dust out of the frame.
We use the compressor with an air nozzle to blast the dust out.
There is a method to doing this and you have to make sure that you have filters on the air line so you aren't blowing any oil out on the glass or the artwork.
We have separate oil and water filters on the outlet of the compressors which are SilentAire.I'm no rocket surgeon but.... isn't compressed air also high in moisture content?
Wouldn't that be a no-no for archival purists?
Even a remote chance of moisture on the artwork (or trapped in the frame package if sealed quickly after being "compressed-air-dusted".
I know when I open the drain valve all sorts of snot gloops out of that compressor chamber.
Would the air filter you mention also remove that moist air?
Please don't misunderstand, I wasn't questioning your experience at all.We have separate oil and water filters on the outlet of the compressors which are SilentAire.
The filters are drained daily and there has never been an issue.
I can take the air nozzle and blast a piece of glass from an inch away just to see and there is no sign of any moisture.
I have been framing for 50 years now (still full time) and I work as shop manager for a man who is on the National PPFA Competition Committee and he also tests the CPF and MCPF candidates at the WCAF in Las Vegas each year.
What we do works for us.
We are very high volume, retail and commercial.
We work on pieces worth 10 dollars and also tens of thousands of dollars with 100% 5-star reviews on Google, Yelp and Facebook.
No problem.Please don't misunderstand, I wasn't questioning your experience at all.
It was a question from my inexperience looking for information from those of you who know much more than I do.
I had no idea there were oil and water filters for compressors.
I will look into that.
I only use a small one for the chop saw and joiner.
I don't use one in the finishing shop. Primarily because where I work is small, with very low volume of work per day. You probably do more work in month than I do in a year.
I don't imagine I'd need the filters for what I currently use the compressor for. But...if I do decide to try it in the finishing shop, now I know the right way to do it.
Thanks for the tip
It's all goodNo problem.
There are many different opinions on the Grumble and I sometimes find that if one person says the Sun rises in the East and sets in the West there will be people who will argue.
Also, there are some compressor driven pieces like v-nailers and some saws that need oil fed into the airline going into the machine for lubrication of the 0-rings while other equipment requires the use of clean, filtered air.
Sorry if I was a little "edgy" but we are slammed at work and It's been a long week.
Have a good one.
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