Cheaper alternatives to UV glass

8x10 photos?
Autographed with what? Sharpie?
If that is the case you need to do a bit more than covering them with UV filtering glass.

Basically I would stick with glass, specifically TruVue Conservation Clear, or Artglass Preservation. At 99% they have the highest UV filtration rating.
But, UV isn’t your only concern.
Physical contact of the glass and the item being framed should be avoided.
Fading of the autograph if signed with a laundry marker will happen anyway, and visible light will accelerate the process.

Also, check with a local independent framer about purchasing the glass. They have more leeway in pricing than a big box employee does.

Per the front page of their website they state "TUFFAK polycarbonate sheet is a polished surface, UV stabilized product for use in glazing and industrial applications".

The key word/words are "stabilized product". Nowhere are the words "offers UV protection to what is behind this glazing". This is confusing terminology to all who are not educated in the art preservation field or with similar educaton.

The answer is that this product's UV properties are designed to protect the integrety of the glazing and nothing else.

The other issue with Polycarbonate, though it can stop a bullet, is that it is relatively soft and scratches easily.

Thanks for the suggestions and info! I figured stabilized meant protection for the material itself. Unfortunately idk what was used to sign the 8x10 photos. I've been using those clear bumpers for cabinets so the photo doesn't touch the glass if you have other suggestions I'd love to hear them. I was wondering what your thoughts on op3 acrylic is? Also I was wondering when framers talk about acid free mats is that the backing of the frame or those precut mats? If it's the backing would something like acid free printer paper work between the photo and the current backing? I'm assuming you want acid free so it doesn't touch the photo and damage it. Thank you all for the help for a novice.

OP3 is a 97% UV filtering acrylic made by Evonik. Acrylic is generally more expensive than glass, and the maintenance is different.
It is normally used instead of glass when there are weight, size, or liability issues.

It would be prudent to assume that the signatures are done with laundry markers and avoid exposing these to light as much as possible. The inks will fade even in the dark, so any source of energy accelerates that process.

All the paper elements that go into the frame should be made from pure cotton (rag board), or alpha-cellulose. The term “acid free” is misleading. Boards made for decorative framing often contain wood pulp which decay and give off acidic gasses which can speed up the oxidation processes.

Terminology:
The mat is the board with an aperture cut in it to expose the art.
The mount is the board behind the art, often hinged to the mat along one side to make a “book” mat.
The art is also often hinge mounted to the mount board, but there are many passive ways to hold the art in place.

For preservation considerations fitting the art into a frame the same size as the art is discouraged. The art will move, contract and expand, with environmental changes and the straight fit will limit that and the art will buckle. You would also be putting the art in contact with the wooden frame which exposes it to the acidic vapors as the wood ages. The general rule of thumb is that the art is at least 1” away from any wooden elements inside the frame.
If what you have is of any value, getting a professional framer involved with the matting and mounting, even if you put these in readymade frames, would be advised.

And no, I’ve never heard of using silicon bumpers as spacers. Clever, but the jury is out about appropriateness.

JFeig said:

TUFFAK | Plaskolite

TUFFAK is a high-performance polycarbonate sheet product from Plaskolite, known for its virtually unbreakable durability and weatherability.

plaskolite.com

Per the front page of their website they state "TUFFAK polycarbonate sheet is a polished surface, UV stabilized product for use in glazing and industrial applications".

The key word/words are "stabilized product". Nowhere are the words "offers UV protection to what is behind this glazing". This is confusing terminology to all who are not educated in the art preservation field or with similar educaton.

The answer is that this product's UV properties are designed to protect the integrety of the glazing and nothing else.

Click to expand...

UV Stabilized is an unfortunately misnamed phrase. I have seen sellers on eBay and Etsy use it to trick people into believing that it offers UV Protection. It has absolutely nothing to do with UV Protection. All picture framing acrylic, even the lowly FF3, is UV Stabilized. Here is what I say on my site at https://www.thepaperframer.com/misleading.php Misleading Acrylic Terms

What is UV Stabilized Acrylic?​

UV Stabilized Acrylic has nothing to do with UV Protection. If a vendor tells you that his acrylic is UV stabilized, ask what the UV Protection is. UV Stabilization and UV Protection have nothing to do with each other.


UV Stabilization deals with the protection of the acrylic itself and UV Protection deals with the protection of the item being framed. All Framing Grade Acrylic (see above) is UV stabilized as is most non-Framing acrylic. The 'stabilized' term comes from the plastics industry to indicate that the acrylic itself won't fade, yellow or crack when left outside. Professional framers don't use this term, as they offer UV Protective Framing Grade Acrylic that also helps protect your art. It is never used in a framing context except to mislead you into believing that it is really UV protection. It isn't. Sign companies use it to indicate that their sign plastics will last outside. Furniture and other manufacturers of outside products also use this term.

FYI my response is not to Larry's post, rather to the Big-Pharma (or whatever we want to call it, that's the name that jumps out to me if not accurate) for their FAKE NEWS!!!!