default hanger options for heavy mirrors?

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Ashlandframing

Grumbler in Training
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Jan 22, 2021
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mobile alabama
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|Ashland Gallery
hello there!
i was just wondering if anyone had any advice for a good hanger to use for mirrors. Clients always want a thin frame, but that leads to issues with hanging. Normally, we would do an upright Dring hanger on each side. often, the frame isnt thick enough to not have the Dring poke out the side (because you want the screw in the middle of the frame.) We have been using some metal threshold material, but that means the customer has to install it themselves, which can be a problem for some. Just wondering if anyone had a good rule of thumb or anything? Also, theres been much discussion as to which thickness in mirror to use. Our vendors only carry 1/8" or 1/4" .... how big can a 1/8" mirror be before it starts to flex and/or distort? Thank yall so much for your time & consideration!!
alison c
 
I use heavy duty Z-Bar from LJ. Usally two 1FT strips on the top unless it is really big then I use a strip the width of the mirror. I use all 1/4" mirror.
Eric
 
Ashlandframing said:
hello there!
i was just wondering if anyone had any advice for a good hanger to use for mirrors. Clients always want a thin frame, but that leads to issues with hanging. Normally, we would do an upright Dring hanger on each side. often, the frame isnt thick enough to not have the Dring poke out the side (because you want the screw in the middle of the frame.) We have been using some metal threshold material, but that means the customer has to install it themselves, which can be a problem for some. Just wondering if anyone had a good rule of thumb or anything? Also, theres been much discussion as to which thickness in mirror to use. Our vendors only carry 1/8" or 1/4" .... how big can a 1/8" mirror be before it starts to flex and/or distort? Thank yall so much for your time & consideration!!
alison c
Click to expand...
How large are these mirrors/frames?
If the D-ring is showing, I assume that you are using 3/4" face or smaller.
If that is the case, then a strainer on the back to hold the frame together may be in order.
In that case 2 D-Rings can be added to the strainer. (there is always the chance that your client may decide to add a wire themselves, against your suggestion)
A cleat/Z-bar is definitely a very secure option, but many clients may not understand how to hang in properly.
 
Another option when using a frame with no load bearing capability is to glue a strainer frame to the back of the mirror using mirror mastic. You can modify the upper rail to be a French cleat, or use aluminum cleats or heavy duty D rings.
Avoid wire hangers, and DSM (double strength mirror 1/8"). DSM is float glass and will have imperfections that cause distortion. 1/4" PPM (Polished Plate Mirror) should be distortion free.
 
Even if the moulding is thin, if it has a deep enough rabbet you can adhere the mirror to a sheet of 3/8" or thicker mdf cut to match and then use Z bars screwed into the MDF backer. Thus, the moulding is not carrying any of the weight.
 
I have seen mirror frames over 100 yo(19th Cent) utilizing this process. Some were made with wide boards rather than sheet goods (plywood or MDF).
 
I have a mirror in my bathroom that is a 4' x 3' sheet of 3mm mirror glass with a ½" face deep Beech
moulding around it. The glass itself sits on a hefty subframe with a cleat system built in. There is no stress
on the moulding and it serves only to hold the 'sandwich' together. Super strong. 😉
 
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