How to DIY Frame (Large) Vintage Posters

[mbass]

Hey all! First time poster (hah) here .

I recently purchased a few old (~1930's - 1950's) posters that I'm interested in framing myself, with varying prices and sizes. The largest (and most expensive of which) is ~$4000, and 27''x40''.

I live in Austin, TX, and bought these (and some previous) posters when I visit to NYC. When I've gotten quotes from my local framers about framing posters like these, the prices have been signficantly higher than what I've been quoted in NY (sometimes it's cheaper to frame + ship the whole thing in a crate!). So, I'm very interested in getting some help on exploring if framing these at home is a sensible option.

I'm a ~fairly~ novice "home framer", but have tried to research where I can. I've previously used various sites like American Frame and Frame Destination to order custom frames for a different poster of similar size (27''x40''). When I did that one I used a Nielsen frame, had UV Acrylic, and an Acid Free Backing Board. I attached the linen-backed poster to the backing board with acid-free with gummed linen tape (I used 2-3 T hinges, with the T cross section on the backside of the backing board). After reading a bit on this forum, it seems like that hinging tape may not have been needed and just relying on the pressure of the poster against the glazing to hold it might be a better option. I didn't - and don't expect to - use a mat when framing that/these posters.

Okay, so with all that context out of the way, I had a few questions:
- What vendors / website would you recommend for purchasing quality frames / acrylic / other framing materials? I mentioned previously I've used sites like American Frame in the past, but am curious if you all have recommendations that have more options that better match the poster's value (I'd want to do it right!).
- How would you all recommend I mount these posters? A pretty opened question here - but yeah, really just looking for all kinds of advice. I could try narrow the scope with a few followups like: Is researching Direct Contact Overlays a good strategy, or should I explore other options, and is there anything I should be aware of when mounting them?

Thank you for the help! Super fun to find a pretty active forum for this stuff

 

[Prospero]

The actual 'frame' is the least of your worries. The skill lies in preparing the item so that it can be put into a frame.
The four bits of wood that go around the outside are almost an afterthought.
Ideally, once framed you should be able to remove the poster from the frame and not be able to tell it had ever been in one.
That's the tricky part....

 

[JFeig]

Welcome with your questions.
#1. The vendors you are using is not used by professional picture framers. It's market is for amateurs like yourself and semi-professional artists with limited assortments. Most industry distributors that are used by professional picture framers and have literally might have thousands of profiles to choose from require a business license for them to accept you as a customer.
#2. Your canvas mounted poster is too heavy for a Direct Contact mounting process. I would be using hand torn paper hinges and one of several small batch prepared adhesives from basic ingredients.
#2a. Linen tape or any other pre-adhesive tape is not used to secure any art to a backing(support) substraight.

 

[Ylva]

Any framer can build you what is called an 'open back frame'. It might be a little more expensive than the vendors you mentioned, but you will have better choices and not worry about shipping if you go to a local framer. As Prospero said, the frame itself is almost an afterthought.

It will save you some money, just buying the frame. If you don't know what you are doing exactly, you can so easily devalue your vintage posters. Linen tape is never used for hinges. (although if these posters are all linen backed, it would be less of a problem). Make sure to use spacers, or a mat to raise the glazing away from the poster.

I would not consider a direct contact overlay on these fragile posters. They were linen backed to preserve them better. Acrylic on top might damage them (abrasive motion)

 

[mbass]

Thanks for all the advice!

Your canvas mounted poster is too heavy for a Direct Contact mounting process. I would be using hand torn paper hinges and one of several small batch prepared adhesives from basic ingredients.

This is great to know. Concretely, would you recommend something like https://www.lineco.com/mulberry-hinging-paper.html Mulberry Hinging Paper and https://www.lineco.com/wheat-starch.html Wheat Starch to make the hinges?

Make sure to use spacers, or a mat to raise the glazing away from the poster.

Is there a minimum recommended thickness for the spacers, or would generally anything be okay? In my head, I think I would like the look of the poster being as close to the glazing as possible.

Any framer can build you what is called an 'open back frame'. It might be a little more expensive than the vendors you mentioned, but you will have better choices and not worry about shipping if you go to a local framer. As Prospero said, the frame itself is almost an afterthought.

I'm super open (and probably prefer) having them framed professionally. When I had shopped around locally it seemed like most framers I spoke with hadn't touched items of this size before, and the labor costs varied pretty wildly which made me want to explore the at-home route. Having someone do an 'open back frame' might be a nice option.

 

[wpfay]

That isn't really all that big for an advertising poster, and a little surprising that local framers in Austin haven't had to deal with piece that large (Isn't everything bigger in Texas?). I have a couple in stock that are in the 40"+ X 60"+ range.
I just did a quick Google search for framers in Austin and there are a couple that stick out. One in particular that has some good testimonials by local designers, and specifies "Oversize Framing" (though this is not considered that) that at least claims to have experience.

These are costly enough to spend some time looking for a qualified framer. Check with local museums about who they would recommend.

To answer some questions.
1/8" is considered the minimal air space between art and glazing. That's roughly the thickness of two 4-ply rag mats, or one 8-ply rag mat.
Mulberry (Kozo) paper hinges (Washi) and Rice or Wheat starch paste (Nori) are the defaults for preservation framing. Something you need to practice a lot before doing it with art.

There are lots of threads about framing vintage posters. Search for them and do a little research. (Search: Upper Right). Keep in mind that we have a pretty good sense of humor as a group, so if you come across "Evergreen Slugs" in the archives, don't be alarmed.

 

[Ylva]

27x40 is not all that huge. Still easy to find matboard in 40x60 and have a nice mat cut for it.

 

[mbass]

Haha, "evergreen slugs" definitely pulled up some good threads, was fun to read through everything here.

I did a second pass at calling a couple well reviewed local framers/conservators around here and the prices seemed much more reasonable (and consistent) than the first time I had went that route, so thanks for the push. I should've mentioned, but that last time I was looking around the piece was 40x55, so the extra size might've been why I was running into so much variance.

It's definitely interesting reading/hearing the recommendations from person-to-person, appreciate you all helping me be informed here.

The need for spacers seems to be a pretty debated topic (both on threads and from in-person discussions with framers / conservators). Might be a long shot, but do you all have pictures/resources that could show what that abrasion damage would look like? And, is that chance for abrasion minimized with better quality glazing? A couple threads mentioned that even with spacers, the acrylic may sag and "rub" anyways. I prefer the look of having the acrylic resting against the poster, but am trying to understand how large of a tradeoff not having spacers is in practice.

 

[wpfay]

From what I understand, the damage is micro-abrasion, or burnishing. Vintage posters are usually lithographs, and the inks are a matte finish. The finish can take on a polish at the areas of contact, and as mentioned previously, restricting the natural expansion/contraction can result in cockling. That would create areas of uneven pressure between the face of the poster and the glazing.